Wednesday, October 21, 2015

October highs, October lows

Greetings, everybody! It's been another exciting two weeks, full of adventure and also personal trials as I reflect on my second year in Korea.

Jinju Lantern Festival
Since the Chuseok holiday, the weather has finally cooled off and it's feeling like autumn. October is here and in Korea that means it is prime festival season. During the first week of October, Korea celebrates Hangul Day which marks the invention and the proclamation of Hangul, the alphabet of the Korean language, by the 15th-century Korean monarch Sejong the Great. Schools were out early for another long holiday weekend, so I took another opportunity to travel around Korea and explore two different festivals.

Oktoberfest
I ended up booking a tour with a company, as it was more convenient because they covered travel, lodging, and most meals throughout the weekend. Many other Fulbrighters joined me, and we had a blast! The first festival we headed to was the Jinju Lantern Festival, which originates from the lantern lighting custom used during the Jinjuseong Fortress Battle of the Imjinwaeran War (Japanese invasion, 1592) as a military strategy to prevent Japanese troops from wading the Namgang River. Throughout the festival, there are many lantern exhibitions that demonstrate Korea's rich culture and history. They are lined up along a river, as well as lit throughout a nearby fortress. We walked around as many areas as we could, and I couldn't even keep count of how many different types of lanterns we saw! My favorite part, of course, was seeing them all lit up during the nighttime. We took a boat ride along the river to see the lanterns in detail. The festival was so crowded! We had to wait in long lines to walk across the river and get to the fortress, which took up precious viewing time.

Jinju Lantern Festival
After the lantern festival, we took a one-hour bus ride to our pensions in Namhae, which were situated along the beach. We dropped our bags off and headed to the beach to hang out and talk before crashing and getting ready for Korea's very own Oktoberfest the next day. We headed out to Oktoberfest around noon, and as you can imagine, spent the day eating and drinking all things German! The festival is held at a small German village in Namhae, which was built for Korean residents who returned from living in Germany. Many Koreans lived in Germany where they earned foreign currency during the modernization of Korea in the 1960's. At the festival, we ate sausages, drank beer, and enjoyed traditional music and games from Germany. During the night time, there was a special performance by an up-and-coming K-Pop group called JJCC. Supposedly, Jackie Chan's son was supposed to be a part of the group, but it was all a big lie. I think the description of the group was lost in translation on the brochure we received. Oh well! It was still fun to dance and watch them perform. I was pretty exhausted after spending the whole day eating, drinking, dancing, and talking, so I called it an early night. The next morning we wandered around the beach before heading back home. It was a solid weekend, and I hope I can go to the REAL Oktoberfest one day in the future!

Jinju Lantern Festival
After the long weekend, I had another short week ahead. The boys were due for midterms from Wednesday-Friday (so I didn't go to school), followed by the Fulbright Fall Conference during the weekend. I ended up heading to Gyeongju (where conference is held) a day early with Emily to explore some sites we weren't able to visit last year. Gyeongju is one of the most historic cities in Korea, home to the Silla Dynasty (57 BC - 935 AD), which boasts tons of beautiful sightseeing opportunities. We checked into our hostel, and the owner ended up driving us around to show us famous boulders and remnants of temples and structures from the Silla Dynasty. Although staring at rocks was somewhat interesting, the view of the rice fields is what captured my attention. Fall is harvest season in Korea for rice, so the fields are covered in shades of yellow, almost as yellow as an ear of corn from good ol' Illinois. After sight-seeing, Emily and I met up with other Fulbrighters who headed into town early for a few drinks. The owner of the bar we went to was an older woman, and she was fascinated by us, and she was so cute asking us all about why we are in Korea and our interests.

Jinju Lantern Festival
Friday marked the beginning of Fall Conference, and I went in feeling confident and energized. By the end of conference, I felt drained, lonely, and unsure of why I decided to renew for a second year. One would think that being at a conference surrounded with 120 other ETAs who are in the same situations as me would make me feel refueled, able to connect, and share highs and lows... but this wasn't the case for me this time around. It was nothing to do with the conference activities themselves - if anything, it was the casual conversations I had with some of my fellow ETAs and feeling like I couldn't fully express myself or feel totally comfortable with those around me, or even with myself (nothing against any of my fellow Fulbrighters, either! Just a current personal matter).

~Fulbright Korea~
During my second year, I have adapted to living in Korea, which has given me time to become extremely introspective and reflective on my personal actions and how I have changed over the past year and a half. I've started to feel as if many Koreans only see me for my outer appearance, not for anything that's within, unless it fits their preconceived perceptions. Thus, I feel like a large part of who I am has just been shut down while I've been here. It's even started to rub off on my Fulbright colleagues/other native friends I've made in Korea. I don't feel fully comfortable in my own skin like I used to. I hope to find outlets where I can just be myself - whether it's through communication with friends near or far, journaling/blogging like I am right now, or something else - it's wearing me out to not be myself. It's harder to put on a front and be something I'm not than to just let my walls down and be who I am meant to be.

Besides this self-revelation at conference, it actually was nice to see people and feel refreshed in my teaching, at least. I am excited to start teaching units again (I was busy with speaking tests when I returned after vacation), and I hope the students will have a lot of fun with them! I'm also staying busy with my half marathon training, so that has been an outlet for me to reduce stress in a positive way. It's nearly two weeks away, and I am training to finish in a time less than 2:00:00.

As always, thanks for reading, and stay true to yourself. I hope to follow my own advice. Talk soon!

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Thursday, October 8, 2015

Chuseok in Seoraksan

Hi friends! Can't believe it's been more than two weeks since my last post - it felt like just yesterday! Time has been flying by as Korea is finally starting to feel like it is transitioning into the autumn season.

Getting close to that North Korean border
As I mentioned in my last post, the Chuseok holiday was quickly approaching, so much of this post will focus on what happened during that time. Chuseok could be compared to America's "Thanksgiving", although the history and traditions are a bit different. As a celebration of the good harvest, Koreans visit their ancestral hometowns and share a feast of Korean traditional food. This holiday is celebrated for three days, and starts on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar (sounds confusing!). Last year, I celebrated all the traditional customs with my homestay family, but this year, my friend Emily and I wanted to take advantage of the long weekend and do some sight-seeing. So, instead of sitting cross-legged for hours on end and eating fried spam, we traveled up to the Northeastern part of S. Korea to a city called Sokcho.

Sokcho, South Korea
Sokcho is a very popular tourist destination, as it boasts a lovely coastal beach and arguably one of Korea's most beautiful national parks, Seoraksan. One of my bucket list goals during my time in Korea is to hike throughout the major national parks, and Seoraksan is on that list! I was eager to get the journey started and see how my expectations lived up.

Entrance of Seoraksan
Emily and I spent three days and two nights in Sokcho, one of which was a full day at Seoraksan National Park. Sokcho itself is a very beautiful city, with so much that catches the eye: ocean, mountains, fish markets, etc. Our first day was spent exploring Sokcho, enjoying the beach, and an appetite for delicious seafood. When checking into our hostel, we ended up running into the other ETA in Gwangyang (Josh) and his girlfriend - neither of us knew the other was heading to Sokcho - and had a good laugh about it. We ended up joining them for dinner and hanging out while planning our full day at Seoraksan. Emily and I were pretty exhausted from all the travel (4 hours from Gwangyang to Seoul for me, then another 3 hours from Seoul to Sokcho), so we crashed early in hopes of being well-rested for the next day's hike!

Ulsanbawi
We woke with an early start, and headed to Seoraksan on a short 30-minute bus ride. Because it was a national holiday, Emily and I were worried about the crowds, which turned out to be not so bothersome after all. Upon arrival, Emily and I were overwhelmed by the beauty of nature. Seriously one of the most beautiful national parks I have been to!

Another beautiful view in the park
We made a schedule to first hike to Ulsanbawi, a famous landscape that is frequently seen on Korea tourism advertisements and brochures. Ulsanbawi is composed of six granite peaks and offers a breathtaking view of everything around it. It was about a 4km hike to the top, and although it was short, it was steep! The entire hike (ascend/descend) took about four hours, which included multiple rest stops and scenic views for photo opportunities along the way. It was one of the most beautiful sites I have ever seen, and I understand why Korea likes to promote this attraction!

Biryong Waterfall
After hiking down to base, we enjoyed an ice cream before heading out to see the waterfalls. I am really glad that we chose to hike to Ulsanbawi before the waterfalls for two major reasons: 1) The park was starting to get PACKED, and everyone was headed to Ulsanbawi, and 2) The hike to the waterfalls was much more leisurely and flat compared to our first hike. The hike to Biryong Falls was only 3 km (one way), and it took us less than an hour to get there. It was a pleasant journey to Biryong as we hiked along a suspension bridge and passed a few smaller waterfalls along the way. Once we arrived, there was a large area to sit along the rocks and enjoy the view. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to swim in the water, so we just had to appreciate from afar.

Pajeon and Makgeolli
Our last stop of the day was the cable car trip to another peak to watch the sunset on the evening of the "super moon". Before heading there, Emily and I refueled with pajeon and makgeolli. Pajeon is basically a vegetable pancake with squid and octopus mixed in. So delicious! It is best combined with a rice wine beverage called makgeolli, which has a milky look to it, but it is difficult to describe the taste. Each city throughout Korea is "famous" for different types of makgeolli, all of which have their own flavors and additives to it. It's not my favorite alcoholic beverage, but it mixes well with what we were eating!

Super Moon view from Korea
Anyway, after drinking a little too much makgeolli, we headed to the cable car which was a short five minute ride to the peak. I think being atop of the peak during the sunset was my favorite part of the day. I have never seen a site so beautiful over Korea with the mountains surrounding us and the lovely oranges, reds, pinks, purples, and blues of the sunset. We took pictures EVERYWHERE and with good reason. Although we couldn't see the super moon from Asia, it was still bright and full before us. A great ending to a perfect day!

This weekend is another extended one in celebration Hangul Day, a national Korean commemorative day marking the invention and the proclamation of Hangul, the alphabet of the Korean language, by the 15th-century Korean monarch Sejong the Great. I will be heading to a Lantern Festival in Jinju as well as Korea's very own Oktoberfest in Namhae. Be on the lookout for some awesome pictures and stories to follow!

Sunset view
Meta sunset view


Enjoying the view
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